A warm bathroom makes bathing and general day to day life more pleasant, and this article will show you how to insulate you bathroom to keep the heat in.
No-one wants to get out of a nice warm bed on a cold winters morning and step onto ice cold bathroom tiles to brush their teeth and get ready for work in the dark – its so depressing!
Much nicer to step onto a nice tiled floor heated by underfloor heating to keep your bare toes nice and warm – a much better start to the day.
Also, when you have a shower after work, no-one want to get out of the cubicle into a freezing bathroom wet and shivering.
Making the bathroom warm will not only result in a more pleasant bathing environment, but will help to keep damp & condensation at bay.
This is because warm rooms are capable of carrying more moisture in the air, and warm rooms have less cold surfaces onto which water vapour can condense.
PS Heating a bathroom properly can be used as part of a 4 part plan to control bathroom humidity
The basic checklist for the ‘heat’ part of this plan is:
- ensure adequate heat in
- retain that heat through better insulation
Ensuring the room gets enough warmth can be achieved by fitting adequately sized radiators & underfloor heating etc.
Retaining the heat once it’s there an be achieved by replacing double glazing, insulating the loft above or by insulating the walls and / or ceiling:
We planned to insulate this bathroom with 2” thick kingspan insulation, before plasterboarding over the top of it prior to painting / tiling.
Investing a little bit in insulation saves money in the long haul on energy bills.
As this wall was very uneven, we chose to baton it out prior to fitting the kingspan insulation to level it up.
4×2” timber batons were packed out level and screwed to the wall before having expanding foam squirted behind them to give extra strength.
The kingspan sheets (which came in 8×4 foot sheets) were then screwed into these studs with long screws and washers.
Any gaps between adjacent boards / between the edges of the boards and the wall were filled with expanding foam to improve the insulations performance by limiting air gaps.
We also chose to overboard the ceiling with insulation boards at the same time, screwing the boards in the same manner into the ceiling joists.
Plasterboards were then secured over the top of the kingspan (with glue & long screws that went through the kingspan and into the studs behind) to plaster / tile onto.
PS Some may recommend gluing plasterboard onto insulation with construction adhesive, but as part of the area would be tiled (and the plasterboard would be taking a bit of weight) I chose to use mechanical fixings as well.
Above you can see all the walls and ceiling have been plasterboarded and they are now ready to be skimmed / tiled.
As the new overboarded ceiling came down lower, we had to re-do the Velux window ‘cheeks.’
The finished area – you would never know to look at it all the extra work required but it will help keep the room nice and warm.
Thanks for reading
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